PRICING OF SERVICES
LOCKSMITH SERVICES: **We do offer Wholesale Pricing for Auctions,Used Car Dealers,Banks,Towing Companies,ect.
Call Fee (Service Call)** $49.00
Work Performed at our Home Base Location $0.00
Pick Lock To Open Door $35.00
Pick And De-Code Lock $55.00
Purchase Code From Manufacture $50-$105.00
Cut Emergency Key (Door Key) $20.00
Cut Ignition Key (non Transponder) $20.00
Cut Transponder Key (Ign) $40.00
Smart Remote KeyFob * $30.00-$50.00
Smart Remote PROX KeyFob * $55.00 - $100.00
Program Transponder Key, KeyFob* $25.00 - $150.00
All Keys Lost (AKL) needs Key Code and/or EEprom read/write- $Price varies $50-$150.00
After Hours Fee $45.00
*Many EU cars cost more
Examples:
-You locked your key inside your car. Result = Service call $49.00 plus Pick lock $35.00 for a total charge to you (most cases) of $84.00 plus tax.
-You Lost Your Key and have no Key Or Remote. Result = Service Call $49.00 plus either Pick and decode ($55.00) Or if unable to pick, Purchase code From Manufacture ($50.00-$105.00), PLUS create New Key And/Or Remote according to your specific car. Result = Min of Call Fee $49.00, Decode $50-$105.00, Reg Key $20.00 OR Transponder Key $40.00 OR Smart Key Remote ($30-$50) OR Prox Smart Key Remote ($55+) PLUS Program Key $25+ ...Total Charge of at minimum $124.00 up to $250.00 according to your particular Car Manufacture. - Some Cars Require TWO(2) Remotes or Keys to Program AKL (all keys lost).
-I just need a Duplicate (2nd) remote key and I have a good working one already. I need a spare (ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA!): Result = Remote key cost plus Program cost, plus service call fee (unless you drive to my home base in Nokomis, then service call fee is waived).
**Normal Business Hours and Days
*Aftermarket Universal Part
AUTOMOTIVE REPAIR PRICING
-Service Call / Trip Charge (Includes 15 minutes Labor) +plus $2/mile after 10 miles $119.00 *Trip fee is for "initial" visit only and a one time charge, does not apply to return visits for the same repair. The only exception would be if mileage traveled is excessive (over 10 miles), In that case a $2/mile surcharge "may" apply... Our Home Base Zip is 34275
-Drop Car off At our Home Base Location (Nokomis). For Free Diag** & Estimate $0.00
-Flat Rate Labor Charge Per Hour, Industry rate per Item. (NOT actual hours spent on repair) $129.00
-Pre/Post Purchase Used Car Inspection (Flat Fee, Includes Trip Charge) +plus $2/mile after 10 miles $139.00
-Customer Provides Parts (flat surcharge fee due to complications and verification's, per part fee) $25.00
-Shop Supplies Charge (varies due to job,usually 2%) 2-5% of total
Examples:
Your car does not start, I come to your location and find a loose Battery terminal. Repair and diagnosis takes less than 15 minutes. Result = $119.00 plus tax.
Your car does not start, I come to your location and diagnose in less than 15 minutes, you decline the repair. Result = $119.00 plus tax.
Diagnosis is the ONLY time frame that is often charged as ACTUAL time to the customer. But at Doctor-D we have a MAXIMUM diagnostic charge that will often be triggered if the issue is very complex and other shops have misdiagnosed, Ghost situations (intermittent faults), then our MAX RATE will trigger. Our current MAX DIAG charge is $200.00 (subject to change).
Our Warranty is 12 Months/12,000 miles as long as we are providing the PARTS AND LABOR for the job. If YOU provide the parts, there is often NO WARRANTY (on YOUR part)... ~This is because there is no way for me to guarantee YOUR diagnosis and/or the quality of the part and that it is the proper part, for that job.
ALL shops mark up parts, EVERY business does! This mark up covers warranty and liability of that part. So If that part fails in 11 months you get a replacement part totally FREE , parts AND labor.. I, Myself, will only use parts that I trust and have history with so that my repair lasts and has value. Over the last 30 years I've been in business , my warranty rate is less than <0.5% of all my repairs performed. ~ With that said, I have seen parts quality across the board going WAY DOWN... This gives us even more challenges in picking correct and quality parts!
Using Your Parts is almost Always a bad idea unless YOU are installing them. When doing this , It exposes the technician to MANY more risks and stressors as we are implied to assume all the responsibilities of that part and its origins, its quality, its proper fit, ect. It also takes profits from the technician as well. Its like bringing your own food to a Restaurant and asking them to cook it for you at a reduced cost.
What happens if I misdiagnose the problem? Well, this does happen, I am only human. Like a Medical Doctor, we sometimes make mistakes and you end up paying for something that didn't fix your problem. For me, This rarely happens, and when it does, It's usually because you have a "ghost" issue. In those cases I can often give you a "confidence" rating of how convinced I am that a particular operation will be successful or not.. I will straight out be honest with you, and say for example " I feel this should fix your problem and I am 90% sure".... And when a misdiagnosis occurs, I do have EMPATHY, and I WILL DISCOUNT the future repair to get your car fixed properly! I will NOT hide my mistakes or deceive my customers into paying for MY MISTAKES... Due to the nature of this business, there may be times where we may not agree that an action was required. In those cases I try and be transparent and educate to the best of my ability and help you understand why and what my actions where intended for. With the World be so "online" , you can almost Always find an opposite or misguided opinion on every job these days. *I'm old enough to provide you the experience, but young enough to actually be connected as well, to give you the best outcomes at the best price. I was taught Real World Diagnosis techniques and not the current ChatGPT method... But AI, does have its benefits when used properly!
**Minor/approx Diagnosis is always free ~usually 15 minutes.
***I am a Man of Faith, And I do have Strong Morals, and have a commitment to God. I value my reputation very highly and will do everything I can to make even a very difficult situation satisfactory to BOTH of us.....
I do charge a Flat / Jobber Hourly Rate. Do NOT let this scare you that this is what you pay from when I arrive till the job is complete! This is the hourly rate you pay for the Actual Per Item R&R set by Industry standards. Many customers get confused and turned off by this rate. It actually Protects YOU.. What would happen if a mechanic charged an hourly rate that was "Clock in / Clock out", What do you think would happen? Yes, you would get a lethargic, slow, overly talkative, guy that takes 2 to 3 X the time it should take ...
Being Mobile, The pricing structure WILL be different than a Brick and Mortar shop. * For example you WILL pay deposits when parts need to be ordered. This is because I do not have your car hostage to guarantee you will complete the job! Many customers, change their mind after the fact, or discover other options, ect.. And then I'm stuck with parts I paid for, FOR YOUR CAR. - If / When you are an established customer and we have mutual "trust" relationship , I will likely NOT be collecting a deposit, unless its a super expensive , odd ball part.... Plus , When you pay with a Credit Card, If I fail to deliver and complete the repair, you just dispute the charge and there is zero risk to you... So really , giving me a deposit has no risk to you at all for me taking the money and running.
Plus, being Licensed by the State. *I'd guess 80% of all the mobile mechanics out there ARE NOT* (just a guess). Gives you legal protections, just like any other shop.
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